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May 2018The development of spinning and weaving began in ancient Egypt around 3400 before Christ (B.C). The tool originally used for weaving was the loom. From 2600 B.C. onwards, silk was spun and woven into silk in China. Later in Roman times the European population was clothed in wool and linen.
Prior to industrialization, just like all other things, fabric was also hand-made. The yarn was made on a very basic machine, the hand-operated spinning wheel, and it was then woven on manually operated looms. This hand-spun, hand-woven fabric was popularly known as khadi, or khaddar.
Khadi, in fact, is a philosophy, a way of life, and not just another kind of fabric.
Making khadi fabric is a slow process.
but Production of Khadi includes cotton growing, picking, ginning, cleaning, carding, slivering, spinning, sizing, dyeing, preparing the warp and woof, weaving and winding. Khadi is the finest example of hand spinning and hand weaving where the finest of the counts are woven.
Hand spinning on the traditional Indian Charkha has unfortunately become the most neglected and forgotten strength of Khadi. The faster semi-mechanized Amber charkha has been in favor lately. Hand spinning up to 115’s count is developed on traditional Indian charkha and 115-150’s on Ambar charkha so that they can compete with mill yarns which average at 120’s count. The major difference between the Traditional Indian Charkhas and Ambar charkha is in the TWIST. The hand spun yarns of the traditional spinning wheel have a much lower twist than the mechanized Ambar spinning wheel which is a manual counterpart to the mill spinning mechanism. Thus the fabric developed through the weaving of hand spun yarn is more soft and absorbent.
Cool in summers and Warm in winters, Khadi is hand woven and hand spun fabric which takes time to be made. The hand woven fabric forms air pockets in the fabric due to the thick and thin places created during hand spinning and is therefore, cooler, softer, more absorbent and breathes better than highly uniform and compact machine made fabrics. The added breath ability means the fabric will stay cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Hand woven fabric also has a textural beauty and visible character. Khadi cotton is a very strong fabric even when it is wet, so it holds up very well to repeat laundering. It has a handcrafted self-texture making each Khadi cloth unique and expensive.
Appearance Grade Khadi yarn has got a unique appearance as compared to mill yarn. This is mainly due to presence of unevenness and imperfections in the yarn. The imperfections mean thick and thin places and also the neps present along the length of the yarn. The imperfections in Khadi yarn are generally much higher than what in observed in ring yarn and presence of them to some extent gives the Khadi fabric the unique look and texture.
Khadi over the decades has moved from a freedom fighter‘s identity fabric to a fashion garment. The world of fashion has started taking a note of the importance of natural fabrics like KHADI that exudes the sense of simplicity with grace & style.
Elegance isn’t solely defined by what you wear. It’s how you carry yourself, how you speak, what you read. We have got to change our ethics and our personal financial system and our whole way of understanding the world. It has to be a world in which people live rather than die a sustainable world.
I didn’t want to be a fashion designer, and for a good half of my career I didn’t like it. I always wanted to do other things. It’s the attitude you bring to clothes that make the difference. Everything I do is a matter of heart, body and soul.
Age and size are only numbers.
Confidence! If you have it, you can make anything look good
I still appreciate individuality. Style is much more interesting than fashion, really. Attitude is everything. It’s really easy to get colors right. It’s really hard to get black – and neutrals – right.
Travel With Friends All The Time
Never in my wildest dreams did I entertain the idea that I would become a fashion designer. I am no longer concerned with sensation and innovation, but with the perfection of my style.
I’ve treated the waistcoat as if it were a corset, so that it becomes the first layer in the process of putting clothes on the body. There is constant motion between layering and revealing.
Take things that matter
Elegance isn’t solely defined by what you wear. It’s how you carry yourself, how you speak, what you read.
I think it’s an old fashioned notion that fashion needs to be exclusive to be fashionable. I am no longer concerned with sensation and innovation, but with the perfection of my style.
You’re only as good as your last collection, which is an enormous pressure. Elegance is not the thing of those who have just escaped from adolescence.You have a more interesting life if you wear cool cloths.
Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.
Don’t miss the morning coffee!
I always thought what you wore underneath was as important as what you wear on top. Beauty is perfect in its imperfections, so you just have to go with the imperfections.
War taught me that not everything is glamorous. I didn’t want to be a fashion designer, and for a good half of my career I didn’t like it. I always wanted to do other things.
When I was young, I lived like an old woman, and when I got old, I had to live like a young person.
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